tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78435026740639531322024-02-21T03:41:57.784-05:00Roc City Cafe RacersAn old school lifestyle and craftsmanship through motorcycles.roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-57892266508524901072013-09-29T11:23:00.002-04:002013-09-29T11:23:14.451-04:00building an alloy cafe racer fender<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9bj_HVl3oJw" width="560"></iframe><br />
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I took some time to document building an aluminum fender for a bike I'm working on. I make quite a few of these parts but usually don't have time to record the process. I start with a piece of 14ga 3003 aluminum, cut to about 20" and 4-5" wide, depending on the style I'm going for. <br />
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The fender is a combination of two curves, the main curve to match the diameter of the wheel, and a tighter curve to match the profile of the tire. To get this shape the center of the fender needs to be stretched and the sides shrunk. Since the shrinking is minor, I'll use a dolly and soft slapper to do it, rather than a tuck shrinker which is for more dramatic shrinking. <br />
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I start by drawing a center line and two other lines each about 3/4" from the edges, the center line is for reference and the two other lines are so I have a guide to where shrinking and stretching part ways, I could do this by eye now, but doing the lines is habit and probably not bad practice. In theory, the lines off the edge mark metal which isn't either stretched or shrunk, so technically it's not moved. That's a good way of thinking about it. <br />
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I start off by hammering the center portion into a shot bag, and then going right to the dolly to bring the sides in with the soft slapper. Right away the fender starts to take shape, it's a pretty basic form so the only challenge really is to keep things even. I use the wheel to smooth out the hammer and shrink areas, then do a check on the tire. One more round of hammering the center and lightly shrinking the edges gets the curves where they should be. Another go in the wheel, and a second pass with a large radius anvil from side to side smooths the fender out. I use a ruler to make sure the edges are spaced evenly, some light working against the dolly brings them in where needed. The final check is done against the tire and the fender is ready for sanding and polishing. <br />
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/alloy-cafe-racer-fender" title="where to grab this part">Where to get this part</a>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-89899363292237817412013-09-29T09:35:00.000-04:002013-09-29T09:35:01.641-04:00building an alloy cafe racer tank part 3<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/uA4PyipNtRg" width="420"></iframe><br />
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I put together the finishing up video of the aluminum tank I'm building for a customer's XS-650, this part includes turning an aluminum bung to match up with the filler cap threaded ring, and welding the bung into the tank. I don't weld the filler on the outside of the tank, even though that is the easier way, I weld on the inside so the cap can sit closer to the surface of the tank, it also keeps distortion down, welding on the outside can wind up wrinkling the top of the tank due to weld shrink. I didn't get much of the bottom of the tank construction or sanding before polishing, mostly because my priority is finishing the tank properly, so sometimes I use all my concentration on the tank and forget to record parts. Stay tuned though, I'll be making more videos, so any parts left out will probably find their way into future vids.<br />
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/">RCC's parts store (where you can get a tank like this)</a>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-9833429273354080632013-09-19T07:41:00.002-04:002013-09-23T08:13:56.598-04:00Handmade alloy cafe racer tank<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/08n62XPbXFI" width="640"></iframe>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-75388583910152866022013-09-18T07:22:00.000-04:002013-09-19T06:49:10.604-04:00Handmade alloy cafe racer tank <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I got a lot of questions about the basics of metal forming in regards to the manx tank build I'm illustrating. Unfortunately I didn't take that many pictures of the actual forming processes while building that tank, so I took and edited some video of the actual forming basics for another bullet cafe racer tank I'm working on. The shape is different, but the same methods apply.<br />
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I use something called a tuck shrinker to shrink edges, some people like to use an an edge shrinker, but hammering a tuck more effectively shrinks than a mechanical shrinker. Stretching the center is done with a hammer and shotbag. Lots of people new to metalworking are under the impression that the english wheel is the workhorse of the shop, but most of the shaping is actually done with the first two tools. The wheel is really a finishing and fine shaping tool. <br />
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I'm using a wooden buck I made years ago for this tank, since then I usually make a foam buck because it's not really necessary to have something as sturdy as wood when you're just using it as a shape reference. Wood is certainly nice when you need to clamp panels in really complex shapes or where really critical accuracy is required, but for most alloy tanks, getting things within half an inch or so is perfectly fine. roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-12899984369846755472013-09-09T23:18:00.001-04:002013-09-23T08:15:42.646-04:00Building an alloy Manx tankGoing to do a little writeup on building an aluminum tank, recently I took some in process photos as I built a manx tank for a customer's cx500 cafe racer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimcZcnOJNykO2ErDD8eIsHlec4P6ANEgCVVx2e94GuClpxrMdTU1eUamlhMVaPjM23hsH6DTLdS2bb7pjIwg4WuKjPzc8XL54Ga26nhyphenhyphenzviUj3Mv8XGEzzFX2BkC1maHpV3qWX2pharRvr/s1600/IMG_0219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="manx tank for a honda cx500" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimcZcnOJNykO2ErDD8eIsHlec4P6ANEgCVVx2e94GuClpxrMdTU1eUamlhMVaPjM23hsH6DTLdS2bb7pjIwg4WuKjPzc8XL54Ga26nhyphenhyphenzviUj3Mv8XGEzzFX2BkC1maHpV3qWX2pharRvr/s320/IMG_0219.JPG" title="building an alloy manx tank" width="320" /></a></div>
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First I like to start with a pattern, foam is fine to use as a template, especially when it doesn't require an exact copy, but you're just working out a shape. It helps to figure out mounting and clearance issues with the bike before banging out any metal too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9EEjpJjrNwwzdAdlz1UzzVmOA70Tg1yNLOQCcvzm5XJW1R2sSJsgv6LBYWJ8rqUeMWTnOq06ltHN12IQJNmTw_dU2K6GxvbSrbeu7xPERbMm3Xzi5nowQN-ZF8kofaEgTzi1X7c-SZab/s1600/IMG_0221.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="manx alloy tank" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9EEjpJjrNwwzdAdlz1UzzVmOA70Tg1yNLOQCcvzm5XJW1R2sSJsgv6LBYWJ8rqUeMWTnOq06ltHN12IQJNmTw_dU2K6GxvbSrbeu7xPERbMm3Xzi5nowQN-ZF8kofaEgTzi1X7c-SZab/s320/IMG_0221.JPG" title="manx tank metalworking" width="320" /></a></div>
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Depending on your style, you can start forming any part of the tank first, I usually like to start the sides on manx types first, because the top is mostly flat and a lot simpler. I like to be able to put each side next to each other to guarantee symmetry. </div>
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Since the pics were just in progress pics, I'll detail more of the actual forming process in the next few days' posts. </div>
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<br />roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-82310188940328212013-09-06T08:24:00.001-04:002013-09-19T06:50:14.946-04:00How to do quality cafe racer seat upholstery (Part 2)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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When the pan is all padded, I use it as a guide to cut the vinyl covering, I could just make patterns and stitch each cover the same exact shape and size, but if the trimming on the foam or fiberglass is off just a little bit, the cover won't ever look right. It takes more time this way, but it guarantees a top notch result. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWH76Zaqrh1m-ZMhmm8tTzoPRTLYq-Xh0Wv6m1sE9_0MR-fyQMxUmrXDciaLkNBO7AlWsjg4Trfz6L-MbCBLps6TVF4Da65A7nBUFtS8sBTURR2Mtf0QEWk8CBQTdMnAdlmSdomMIJLfwT/s1600/IMG_0156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWH76Zaqrh1m-ZMhmm8tTzoPRTLYq-Xh0Wv6m1sE9_0MR-fyQMxUmrXDciaLkNBO7AlWsjg4Trfz6L-MbCBLps6TVF4Da65A7nBUFtS8sBTURR2Mtf0QEWk8CBQTdMnAdlmSdomMIJLfwT/s320/IMG_0156.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since I use a flat fell type of seam for durability, I need to create a trim line offset from the edge of the foam by a little more than usual, I like to use about 1/2". This is where the vinyl will be trimmed and where I'll line up the edge of the skirt piece. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7s1bw2acFNtvskej4FQAs0sQHFW8Ok1OEVWnNPSZL_e4wRg3kJx7ucSLS77izCyrKLj4bPm900Oe1eIBJylaa0RTcCNDjMVelhLl7yIEby5CHlrNcOJHF9S3BNTox6KD4bcPV1XdWwn2F/s1600/IMG_0158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7s1bw2acFNtvskej4FQAs0sQHFW8Ok1OEVWnNPSZL_e4wRg3kJx7ucSLS77izCyrKLj4bPm900Oe1eIBJylaa0RTcCNDjMVelhLl7yIEby5CHlrNcOJHF9S3BNTox6KD4bcPV1XdWwn2F/s320/IMG_0158.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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To stitch the skirting to the main seat piece, I use transfer tape to stick the pieces together before actual stitching, this keeps things from moving around and ruining the straightness of the seam. The first stitch is done on the backsides of the vinyl, then it's folded over and the next stitch is done about 1/4" from the first seam. This makes the skirting hang perpendicular to the main seat piece without any bunching.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XDBKi1v5oeibW7PlDvX1JCJbQtFM8OY1TmEwJ4HycnBh5dLx9Z6qae3asI5Qwk_ugdXzqu3wA-Z483egCZ5MO4nu_d_-bZDpp8RdSD-cAt978LofXTSOTouyKT7aJXzSRK44DZaa7Rfi/s1600/IMG_0163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XDBKi1v5oeibW7PlDvX1JCJbQtFM8OY1TmEwJ4HycnBh5dLx9Z6qae3asI5Qwk_ugdXzqu3wA-Z483egCZ5MO4nu_d_-bZDpp8RdSD-cAt978LofXTSOTouyKT7aJXzSRK44DZaa7Rfi/s320/IMG_0163.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-16-7kZV3wlWGymPTh_GqMH3-hnsWPIhiCtQNbGyaQlOEyFhb_Z2WIacJUTh-MjkiIVERFF8BM94d4HFJ9mI5ntA2_8QxFc-qHz15k7bkPcq8yN2lAm2Cx9KKYpFCghaWBxBWa6jImmz/s1600/IMG_0168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-16-7kZV3wlWGymPTh_GqMH3-hnsWPIhiCtQNbGyaQlOEyFhb_Z2WIacJUTh-MjkiIVERFF8BM94d4HFJ9mI5ntA2_8QxFc-qHz15k7bkPcq8yN2lAm2Cx9KKYpFCghaWBxBWa6jImmz/s320/IMG_0168.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, the back piece gets stitched to the main seat piece, I use transfer tape again to lock it in place so nothing bunches up while stitching. This piece can be cut extra large because it's trimmed to match the back piece of foam. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYU3fs4QrGN_bwPJNhrKoxmNs0gX3cs7piTncv-i9XhKrLaRVHbjeHfB90H2br8ne33zmUDQBoetiJyAywBKjAUexKZvNd1izdaGJ3XSGXFVKffqS4jCI73UC7U_hwP1QjbeQ7CStKjSJ/s1600/IMG_0173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYU3fs4QrGN_bwPJNhrKoxmNs0gX3cs7piTncv-i9XhKrLaRVHbjeHfB90H2br8ne33zmUDQBoetiJyAywBKjAUexKZvNd1izdaGJ3XSGXFVKffqS4jCI73UC7U_hwP1QjbeQ7CStKjSJ/s320/IMG_0173.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Once the back piece is stitched, the whole cover is temporarily put on the foam and the back piece is pinned to the back foam, this gives it the shape it will take on when the pad is done.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmNAe6SuWTjo_-N0nKGLfRbnG0aS8842R15TVkww1RpkKJhTDsHDMl0j6RR0ICfV1A7TDKyZ9NqH0na8ZUIVpQZY0Vftbauwam14xTHkP6kMLvvo2tbkx6f58up2LSHdQDBhlxCQE3-Cl/s1600/IMG_0175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmNAe6SuWTjo_-N0nKGLfRbnG0aS8842R15TVkww1RpkKJhTDsHDMl0j6RR0ICfV1A7TDKyZ9NqH0na8ZUIVpQZY0Vftbauwam14xTHkP6kMLvvo2tbkx6f58up2LSHdQDBhlxCQE3-Cl/s320/IMG_0175.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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To make the back skirt piece, I use two pieces of transfer tape, one to fold the first 1/2" of vinyl over on itself, and the next piece on top of that fold. </div>
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The rear skirt is then stretched over the back piece of vinyl and pressed so the transfer tape holds it in place, then the pins are removed and the piece is unfolded and stitched. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJetrWHBR-hA5-7P2J8Hb9KBfse2Fth9lIGIOtFoNGkEUUync0QOvji57GzV0fIMA2I3vlESKos_YQKzXX0hwLDYdMm2EkWMoEOiobMBlfk1a3lffyWFuxQv4wcYt6dcvokuAGm50ID2W/s1600/IMG_0183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJetrWHBR-hA5-7P2J8Hb9KBfse2Fth9lIGIOtFoNGkEUUync0QOvji57GzV0fIMA2I3vlESKos_YQKzXX0hwLDYdMm2EkWMoEOiobMBlfk1a3lffyWFuxQv4wcYt6dcvokuAGm50ID2W/s320/IMG_0183.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The piece is then folded over and the second stitch is done, extra care has to be taken here because any mistakes will cause the back of the seat to be uneven. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMS4Ii1yJjgAiMS57hL1G497SZaLAlHgU2kSpK40zn-tU4uSZ8QJFeCK20lr8xZPjgC246Faoksam5t55dBkQ-vFERYx9rn3b24BW7TFhUgY9P8gZDfvwajdPglLoDPmJFu-elXIxxizZ/s1600/IMG_0186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMS4Ii1yJjgAiMS57hL1G497SZaLAlHgU2kSpK40zn-tU4uSZ8QJFeCK20lr8xZPjgC246Faoksam5t55dBkQ-vFERYx9rn3b24BW7TFhUgY9P8gZDfvwajdPglLoDPmJFu-elXIxxizZ/s320/IMG_0186.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The cover is then checked against the foam, when pulled tight it should be even and have no bunching anywhere. </div>
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The cover is then riveted to the base and pulled taught as it's riveted. Any excess material is trimmed off and hot melt adhesive can be used to flatten the creases against the fiberglass base. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKV9OotfOOUBj-ZojeTL1Z7-WScU-Xl5vgUoIyUgAGLnkvanCmPS5zRl4IM3HD4DL2H82x6NL8ZcM6qhH6Jm6zACZo9iUgbx476GryFVr8t5GqJKtK-ohJi_4WX-DzDsBrD1P6_4HtKb-C/s1600/IMG_0199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKV9OotfOOUBj-ZojeTL1Z7-WScU-Xl5vgUoIyUgAGLnkvanCmPS5zRl4IM3HD4DL2H82x6NL8ZcM6qhH6Jm6zACZo9iUgbx476GryFVr8t5GqJKtK-ohJi_4WX-DzDsBrD1P6_4HtKb-C/s320/IMG_0199.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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All ready for installation!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmjM6ZN_pkMdacQse_Lauyq0C4TKN8B4FyEmYDQPICL2razIVDFGGE9ypksYtv2KPjtXr-Yr7dud-u8zO-_jHQaIDMuPiDPe1FTOhYc8njqO5Wbb8eziLmxjtTrGrpyN_lHzF49Uy6wZg/s1600/IMG_0201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmjM6ZN_pkMdacQse_Lauyq0C4TKN8B4FyEmYDQPICL2razIVDFGGE9ypksYtv2KPjtXr-Yr7dud-u8zO-_jHQaIDMuPiDPe1FTOhYc8njqO5Wbb8eziLmxjtTrGrpyN_lHzF49Uy6wZg/s320/IMG_0201.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/">Roc City Cafe Racers</a></div>
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<br />roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-71731290233504498502013-09-03T19:23:00.007-04:002013-09-19T06:50:35.432-04:00How to do quality cafe racer seat upholsteryI've been upholstering my own seats for a few years now, and when looking back at the first ones, I'm a bit impressed at how they look now. Not blown away mind you, I'm a novice at best, but I think I can share some techniques with beginners that may help them along the way.<br />
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The style of pad I like to do is a separate upholstery unit, in my mind, it makes for a much cleaner look on the bike and is a lot easier to remove for underseat access than the snap cover type. This type is shown on my personal bike, yeah, I actually ride on the parts I make!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGd1JzM1K-1kMxbfQmhnYR_9_dwpbnhWlZ6lMy4KGh2Ygbj93gRG3gPBZ563SbN7Tt7S4HKGPYEtiPfukX-bk2ToNfMUSySFwp6SVFEQUNnrYaZeeVTIsXVYEUN04FOwJosoWPZobEfzXP/s1600/IMG_0592%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGd1JzM1K-1kMxbfQmhnYR_9_dwpbnhWlZ6lMy4KGh2Ygbj93gRG3gPBZ563SbN7Tt7S4HKGPYEtiPfukX-bk2ToNfMUSySFwp6SVFEQUNnrYaZeeVTIsXVYEUN04FOwJosoWPZobEfzXP/s320/IMG_0592%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The first step in my process is to make a fiberglass base pan for the pad, I use an original seat for the mold, and wax it so the glass doesn't stick to it, a couple layers of chopped mat is stiff enough for this purpose. When it's all cured, I remove it and trim to the shape I want, I use templates for the seats I make all the time, it saves some measuring and marking time and ensures everyone's getting exactly what's in the picture. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MwDXHXt2YmFrOrneZBirYN-1rB_G3Ej4hnesNpa0aS57DGSLmaOPm8kRE9VtaMkHdD_z1fD3crBh_o2ussRwskH2eFQs34ooECww0rDiarrEzFFYWEkzSWshy1eUaNy1nWaJA52kfd7t/s1600/IMG_0144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MwDXHXt2YmFrOrneZBirYN-1rB_G3Ej4hnesNpa0aS57DGSLmaOPm8kRE9VtaMkHdD_z1fD3crBh_o2ussRwskH2eFQs34ooECww0rDiarrEzFFYWEkzSWshy1eUaNy1nWaJA52kfd7t/s320/IMG_0144.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next I drill out holes for 1/8" rivets along the edge of the pan, I find rivets work best to hold down the material without starting tears in it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTj6Jj9vuYn6N6bK33-cdVEXKMeapQadhu4JHP6geTPqMlynx85tWOMVar-iFKedLsTScCdYFFl_vrQUzrnWShXYZOG0x8eoJvtCU05mTl38WAItWZF62Ms1fmH9ZOuEP5PJZ1CDb4DOkH/s1600/IMG_0150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTj6Jj9vuYn6N6bK33-cdVEXKMeapQadhu4JHP6geTPqMlynx85tWOMVar-iFKedLsTScCdYFFl_vrQUzrnWShXYZOG0x8eoJvtCU05mTl38WAItWZF62Ms1fmH9ZOuEP5PJZ1CDb4DOkH/s320/IMG_0150.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Depending on the firmness desired, I make a base layer of at least 1/2" of high density closed cell foam, similar to yoga mats, or those floor covers for work areas. Spray adhesive or contact cement work well to hold the foam to the fiberglass base. The next layer(s) of foam should be a lower density type that adds a bit of cushion and lets the sewn material move a bit, it looks better than using only high density foam throughout.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8X20llP4pIxLoMj00ESd08mwBZvCu6tQ_uh3Y1vlabItADKu86j25HqDoS9iGpjCBqEcLK0vKK3fFkhtzyq1oNXTG7e28uCVBUFN1LMaYG2N3RaJ3WVkjge9ZT4kDDQhcUaFdUnXrAWg/s1600/IMG_0153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8X20llP4pIxLoMj00ESd08mwBZvCu6tQ_uh3Y1vlabItADKu86j25HqDoS9iGpjCBqEcLK0vKK3fFkhtzyq1oNXTG7e28uCVBUFN1LMaYG2N3RaJ3WVkjge9ZT4kDDQhcUaFdUnXrAWg/s320/IMG_0153.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the foam layers adhered to the fiberglass base, I use a bandsaw, or a hand razor saw would work as well, to cut the foam using the edge of the fiberglass as a guide. This makes sure the foam is straight along the sides and won't make the covering look lumpy. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaoq0lOsQ7HigpagzO1srb2VWnOrh5volnlj3lvio_kVg-6NruVRydP7V7gX8iZpquI1TU7NRWbsYlGrBjv_uKokTtLURTi8UzS9viuO19CdxPV5Qd_-H7-t5kJH987VM9aCrYaYHYGdBk/s1600/IMG_0155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaoq0lOsQ7HigpagzO1srb2VWnOrh5volnlj3lvio_kVg-6NruVRydP7V7gX8iZpquI1TU7NRWbsYlGrBjv_uKokTtLURTi8UzS9viuO19CdxPV5Qd_-H7-t5kJH987VM9aCrYaYHYGdBk/s320/IMG_0155.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, and this is a very important step, <i>(I've had people tell me some of the "really famous" builders don't do this and have problems with the covers tearing!),</i> I cover the fiberglass edge in either a few layers of masking tape or gaffer tape. This keeps the abrasive fibers from rubbing holes in the vinyl covering... surprised that some people never think that far ahead. <br />
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<i>tomorrow - sewing the cover</i></div>
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/">Roc City Cafe Racers</a></div>
roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-71061985294713054912013-08-31T08:55:00.000-04:002013-09-23T08:21:58.417-04:00How to build a Cafe Racer SeatOk, everyone wants it, here it is. Here's how you do it, the definitive guide on making your "cafe racer" seat. If you really actually truly follow these steps, and really actually listen to what I'm saying, don't skip steps, don't half-ass bits of the process because it was cheaper or you didn't have that tool, etc etc, you'll wind up with a nice seat that doesn't use 4 cans of Bondo. <br />
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Invariably, yes, it is cheaper and easier to buy a ready made seat, and frankly, the only reason you should do it this way is if you want your own style, or are a serious massochist. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbW_XHyN0HQBroi7tWRXodR6t3iDQmkiDTsTjzYXUXIZEIZlKSAw_aaNk3tjOl2KR4w8hsPAOZHTw6s7doL742HY_mKS-1WhQ8fdn99_oVyx2RHNkxWeUgkbbKWlVV4wEU3m-BhoK_Skn/s1600/tools.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="tools to build a cafe seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbW_XHyN0HQBroi7tWRXodR6t3iDQmkiDTsTjzYXUXIZEIZlKSAw_aaNk3tjOl2KR4w8hsPAOZHTw6s7doL742HY_mKS-1WhQ8fdn99_oVyx2RHNkxWeUgkbbKWlVV4wEU3m-BhoK_Skn/s320/tools.jpg" title="tools to build a cafe seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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The first thing you need is tools, shown here are a can of spray adhesive, a flexible tape measure (used more as a contour gauge than a ruler), coping saw, small drywall saw, rasp, contouring sanding block, ruler, xacto, tape measure and some pens. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxsv4iHiSSOuBS3jnIqAA7a9pmo7FX4Ve4DfiN1Jk4eS4EIgQE4QFMwR0OovhgjyEl7Sp5e-giBR3F8uW6aVqbtgsnaTFjk9noA1Fz8SzMoEJens_JQUGLZfYCcNJTgf9XlsO-Vc_avtb/s1600/plans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="laying out a seat design" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxsv4iHiSSOuBS3jnIqAA7a9pmo7FX4Ve4DfiN1Jk4eS4EIgQE4QFMwR0OovhgjyEl7Sp5e-giBR3F8uW6aVqbtgsnaTFjk9noA1Fz8SzMoEJens_JQUGLZfYCcNJTgf9XlsO-Vc_avtb/s320/plans.jpg" title="laying out a seat design" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the first step is DRAW THE DAMNED THING! If you're one of those youtube generation kids, you've stopped reading by now and are just scrolling through the pics, so have fun with that. If you're still tuned in though, drawing the thing is the first step to a good design, sit on it for a day or two as well, you'll be amazed how many changes you make because of things you didn't consider, and how many changes you'll wish you made if you just start slogging fiberglass at something without thinking. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrTtLggTa8yxwtRQiIvUBsgpbQE05Lwuv-ZIq3VeArn69JE2bLFAdeiYInhq024ywG4RogfDKMCVFi1SETPSECrN-_SMq8GoQKUIuygP8VFksIpz57J74xfOujn_uPUUrlgkZp0dxiR17/s1600/template.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="cafe seat patternmaking" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrTtLggTa8yxwtRQiIvUBsgpbQE05Lwuv-ZIq3VeArn69JE2bLFAdeiYInhq024ywG4RogfDKMCVFi1SETPSECrN-_SMq8GoQKUIuygP8VFksIpz57J74xfOujn_uPUUrlgkZp0dxiR17/s320/template.jpg" title="cafe seat patternmaking" width="320" /></a></div>
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When you're really happy with the design, print it full scale, or if you drew it full scale, use it to trace out negative templates, these will guide you and help keep your part symmetrical. I like to use melamine from the hardware store, but chipboard or scrap boxes work too, just a bit flimsier. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsl_rNV-_jpOEZQ7k076nWy0ShtJf1t6Yyw8PFtUJzi_rAnfvoYchNjsgpl_HHvgfyq00NVi6hKGP5EDBDHkLeDysw1XYQU9yUep3KCvONf3ANVIzbIP5INvfzT_llaYMoAC01xwTC7_H5/s1600/template2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="seat templates" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsl_rNV-_jpOEZQ7k076nWy0ShtJf1t6Yyw8PFtUJzi_rAnfvoYchNjsgpl_HHvgfyq00NVi6hKGP5EDBDHkLeDysw1XYQU9yUep3KCvONf3ANVIzbIP5INvfzT_llaYMoAC01xwTC7_H5/s320/template2.jpg" title="seat templates" width="320" /></a></div>
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As far as materials, I use urethane foam from the hardware store (it's the yellow stuff, not the pink or blue). The reason for this is that it's easy to carve and doesn't dissolve in contact with fiberglass. Most of the videos you see on how to do this tell you to cover your foam in plastic and mold release it. This is absolutely the worst thing to do, you want your fiberglass to stick to and follow the shape of your foam, not lay on top and slide down the sides because of the plastic and release agent. When you're done with the seat, you don't pop it off your foam anyway, you tear the foam out with the back of a claw hammer, you're done with it, there's no point in trying to save it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoniIm0-BCnyNNhnKQxyHmHXzMew7XW88WuofIG7fWRTsK54m_u1BGnvZVOMx4fLXVLQyMn1A9beQLRz5gDEu1UVp0Oou7Q55TDUcQDZYQbMvsH-u6Yb_j57bTBzjyt-CwVrDZnhnfmvG7/s1600/foam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="laying out patterns" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoniIm0-BCnyNNhnKQxyHmHXzMew7XW88WuofIG7fWRTsK54m_u1BGnvZVOMx4fLXVLQyMn1A9beQLRz5gDEu1UVp0Oou7Q55TDUcQDZYQbMvsH-u6Yb_j57bTBzjyt-CwVrDZnhnfmvG7/s320/foam.jpg" title="laying out patterns" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISxUCp9YZsQk7IHuEJkJsaR7PNKwhIExRHfV2f5ytwm_tuCdCFK2Ib_uQZNyJu0In26OsoW1_wGT2-5TBHMUv6cfFdI8Z3Yz3E3RuCavHYouJtmTjlmCFZfKtl7hb0Ha0P2JDnqBWqgHf/s1600/0730081533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="carving foam for the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISxUCp9YZsQk7IHuEJkJsaR7PNKwhIExRHfV2f5ytwm_tuCdCFK2Ib_uQZNyJu0In26OsoW1_wGT2-5TBHMUv6cfFdI8Z3Yz3E3RuCavHYouJtmTjlmCFZfKtl7hb0Ha0P2JDnqBWqgHf/s320/0730081533.jpg" title="carving foam for the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHB8tf_AEB3dsjrjAhEJnF-E3CXqbcXq46p-YW0p44k0iBhnfTfxwdExivIZIWk3ur6GYZ8WIozdr9QoZisKc07LCgojnR2ps7kShnvJRnke2AyCjSpyjx64SPuMEFQ9eP0wvq-di68UoI/s1600/0730081558.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="building the seat shape" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHB8tf_AEB3dsjrjAhEJnF-E3CXqbcXq46p-YW0p44k0iBhnfTfxwdExivIZIWk3ur6GYZ8WIozdr9QoZisKc07LCgojnR2ps7kShnvJRnke2AyCjSpyjx64SPuMEFQ9eP0wvq-di68UoI/s320/0730081558.jpg" title="building the seat shape" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Tty501-BOZN7edEdSXbuoTcfWy9E9p6MylUSQSnsdYxWiNpR1e0FzaqenqJF1ellimDH9KOtkeXnWoKoq-cIzkN32R4sneDpLFHnzrg-jiF-PabluKCfN67R1zACW0ebwrqtTQwIyBvz/s1600/0730081547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="adding material to the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Tty501-BOZN7edEdSXbuoTcfWy9E9p6MylUSQSnsdYxWiNpR1e0FzaqenqJF1ellimDH9KOtkeXnWoKoq-cIzkN32R4sneDpLFHnzrg-jiF-PabluKCfN67R1zACW0ebwrqtTQwIyBvz/s320/0730081547.jpg" title="adding material to the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y4ugdvZO1OhyphenhyphenHTyNirno-b_2VwJ4nXhqHdJs9y0II4eEl7uxldZjjOdQtCIxr5dBKx-4hJ6cUwNKZZxr5rJOOSx487EcUXFcu1IKhVdwQzQbbn9aIsti0lWnkPrlxw2kJ6QBLCwFkgOZ/s1600/shaping+template.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="forming the shape of the cowl" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y4ugdvZO1OhyphenhyphenHTyNirno-b_2VwJ4nXhqHdJs9y0II4eEl7uxldZjjOdQtCIxr5dBKx-4hJ6cUwNKZZxr5rJOOSx487EcUXFcu1IKhVdwQzQbbn9aIsti0lWnkPrlxw2kJ6QBLCwFkgOZ/s320/shaping+template.jpg" title="forming the shape of the cowl" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's where your guides come in, you can use them to rough in the shape as you stack up the foam layers, then use them to guide your rasping and sanding to finish the shape. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWB5VIU_ZCZTv-I6CPPx37TwO2oSCZcDF2ioRarz3ec_yNhrspLg1lJgkRSruQJ7_xfpAZCvhh_HJnVkpaCSkwO70erqyAGHAnetKZLe2Po0lYvTz7FriZnznnmOYZgYG3aWjLTyoYRn/s1600/final+formed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cafe seat final shape" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWB5VIU_ZCZTv-I6CPPx37TwO2oSCZcDF2ioRarz3ec_yNhrspLg1lJgkRSruQJ7_xfpAZCvhh_HJnVkpaCSkwO70erqyAGHAnetKZLe2Po0lYvTz7FriZnznnmOYZgYG3aWjLTyoYRn/s320/final+formed.jpg" title="cafe seat final shape" width="320" /></a></div>
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Final carving has to be done carefully, because the final foam form is what determines your end shape, if the foam isn't straight, or smooth, then you're boned. The only way you'll recover from that is by grinding massive high spots down through the foam, reglassing, grinding again, and adding massive amounts of bondo to the low spots and adding a ton of weight and time in sanding. 99% of the fiberglass seat diy builds I see skip the step of getting the foam really smooth and straight, and go straight to slogging fiberglass. Then with the magic of editing, they turn 28 hours of sanding, grinding, rebondoing and swearing into a minute's worth of "finish work". Balls I say... this is how you really do it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0B1vzH1Cy9PXH0rvMQ0APKiczfdHnxyCl8q-Z4_p89K_p_Iqcte8DyhdpR4kCMrY2Zk9dUSQZ6N_9v96gwV72t3AwksMI2pMqJZNfLf6bF1_HoTS6yTOQJI7amN3zBO1bNWo0PsQiu2mt/s1600/veil+cuts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="glassing the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0B1vzH1Cy9PXH0rvMQ0APKiczfdHnxyCl8q-Z4_p89K_p_Iqcte8DyhdpR4kCMrY2Zk9dUSQZ6N_9v96gwV72t3AwksMI2pMqJZNfLf6bF1_HoTS6yTOQJI7amN3zBO1bNWo0PsQiu2mt/s320/veil+cuts.jpg" title="glassing the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next step, once you're absolutely positively sure your foam is good, is to begin glassing. You don't start glassing with mat, or cloth, or whatever, you start with surfacing veil, the really fine thin stuff that barely adds any thickness to the part. The reason is because you first want to create a nice shell surface to add thicker stuff to, a shell that will help thicker stuff stick and keep you from distorting the foam underneath as you apply the main glass layers. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9MNAo1iY8lJkC8d6ABQw7C-E5TJcZ3wmP9_ifNeOza8eVOAqSt3xVrkJUTdMgpJkLoG8rhaSLzagjNGsJ9fD2dQkNgvUl0FfKDe5B3-vaYqZJG-ze1zyxS5YbXQmvcziIfpQgvtTBSjC/s1600/laying+veil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="wetting out the fiberglass" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9MNAo1iY8lJkC8d6ABQw7C-E5TJcZ3wmP9_ifNeOza8eVOAqSt3xVrkJUTdMgpJkLoG8rhaSLzagjNGsJ9fD2dQkNgvUl0FfKDe5B3-vaYqZJG-ze1zyxS5YbXQmvcziIfpQgvtTBSjC/s320/laying+veil.jpg" title="wetting out the fiberglass" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUo_Brkoi6VB_rmONU2YmQP8aF5R54FSIY4qS9vJYGFQ7nA7RKDSTIBar85nqZ7f1TysDuwEtKkrr-fK2xJoNcBRIYeo31Y-fZn6jQ_Y3hG52n_MDepoiUoeZC5Ep3rTpihD8A42Ann2cs/s1600/glassed+veil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="first round of fiberglass" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUo_Brkoi6VB_rmONU2YmQP8aF5R54FSIY4qS9vJYGFQ7nA7RKDSTIBar85nqZ7f1TysDuwEtKkrr-fK2xJoNcBRIYeo31Y-fZn6jQ_Y3hG52n_MDepoiUoeZC5Ep3rTpihD8A42Ann2cs/s320/glassed+veil.jpg" title="first round of fiberglass" width="320" /></a></div>
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once you've got a layer on, there are usually a few spots that don't stick all the way, so sand down the whole part to knock those off, and apply a second layer of veil, the second layer will lay down perfectly now. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5o2arY7o4DvjD_XAprqc9z7_5jefh7QfIzllSYz75TGUtuKfx9A_pSPD0jW1MCJIc65C6gnWP3UGBeRebGa7TO4DMsR4P5LtQv0HjjzFnHXJRk3AOoXi6GT-QcySQJd0VWnVvlFyuXPVh/s1600/glassed+plug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="adding more glass to the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5o2arY7o4DvjD_XAprqc9z7_5jefh7QfIzllSYz75TGUtuKfx9A_pSPD0jW1MCJIc65C6gnWP3UGBeRebGa7TO4DMsR4P5LtQv0HjjzFnHXJRk3AOoXi6GT-QcySQJd0VWnVvlFyuXPVh/s320/glassed+plug.jpg" title="adding more glass to the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6HjEAg1d0o15aKVjaqu9DT_X3lvuI6JQ9yzBisZFYAqL8nMed9aUEPgtFx0MEYNp5AaId7-uOwD_O3RsQUbHxAVs7zHKy_xb2V7N9dPWEmRxjJ9KQZhFAc4xsNkVil4I5giqJGYUvI7DB/s1600/glassing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="laying out cloth for the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6HjEAg1d0o15aKVjaqu9DT_X3lvuI6JQ9yzBisZFYAqL8nMed9aUEPgtFx0MEYNp5AaId7-uOwD_O3RsQUbHxAVs7zHKy_xb2V7N9dPWEmRxjJ9KQZhFAc4xsNkVil4I5giqJGYUvI7DB/s320/glassing.jpg" title="laying out cloth for the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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And now onto a tacky but hard second layer of veil, you start applying your cloth. I don't like building one-off's with mat because it really doesn't lay down in a consistent thickness, doing it with cloth will save you hours in finishing time. A critical step is to really carefully plan how you trim your cloth, make sure it doesn't fold over anywhere, and where you overlap pieces, make sure the next layer skips the overlap, that way you're not creating any high spots that you'll have to grind off later. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_dMbwVPCJCuJdaO-fEzCaHf3Wb78mX9ZoX306weXMxV7QIKRb8bWyJesM6CpZG-FuETVrvK-MUDT0QhN7f-9vbvsmmCnd2Af92BZqOwm_vuYI96C24JBo7A4UimidloGjHR4-YMYDWbG/s1600/thin+glass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="shaping the fiberglass" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_dMbwVPCJCuJdaO-fEzCaHf3Wb78mX9ZoX306weXMxV7QIKRb8bWyJesM6CpZG-FuETVrvK-MUDT0QhN7f-9vbvsmmCnd2Af92BZqOwm_vuYI96C24JBo7A4UimidloGjHR4-YMYDWbG/s320/thin+glass.jpg" title="shaping the fiberglass" width="320" /></a></div>
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If there are any areas that don't want to lay down, use some tin foil to hold them to the part, it peels off easily once the glass is cured and will keep you from having to spend more time grinding out bubbles and reglassing. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0hzZaLIJ-Au1L14mwN48K1xtSXevX52UIJGTvLxX5Cefy1rN13S4iKqc40E786kIpNQvs6VNn8BJmE6TwDU0EnnUpkhTRsxpw8HEP8Za7qrVfla-_G18wLxOAFgfiQhw86_E1-C9S9d3/s1600/filler+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="filling the fiberglass" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0hzZaLIJ-Au1L14mwN48K1xtSXevX52UIJGTvLxX5Cefy1rN13S4iKqc40E786kIpNQvs6VNn8BJmE6TwDU0EnnUpkhTRsxpw8HEP8Za7qrVfla-_G18wLxOAFgfiQhw86_E1-C9S9d3/s320/filler+2.jpg" title="filling the fiberglass" width="320" /></a></div>
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now that you've got a glassed part, hit it with the sander to knock down any high spots or burrs, and apply a SKIN coat of bondo, a skin coat is basically running the squeegee across the surface so the filler only fills the low spots, there should still be spots of fiberglass visible, and that's okay because your glass conforms properly to the foam model. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGYNsgvxULIk0s4B8yFKenkzjRWuluuSMUr7PxTNWGSfWntcB1GCq1tH_kAOIq57BmYJgn3laeIJ9UE0WB_VDxc0pgBNkllMNL-FhzoUYRL9c8MJtH9OlLEtME0ihVN-6-_djZz-9ocLMJ/s1600/filler+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="smoothing the seat shape" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGYNsgvxULIk0s4B8yFKenkzjRWuluuSMUr7PxTNWGSfWntcB1GCq1tH_kAOIq57BmYJgn3laeIJ9UE0WB_VDxc0pgBNkllMNL-FhzoUYRL9c8MJtH9OlLEtME0ihVN-6-_djZz-9ocLMJ/s320/filler+1.jpg" title="smoothing the seat shape" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once the bondo is cured, hit it with the sander again, you'll see a mix of glass and bondo on the surface, and that's fine, then apply another skin coat, this time use the curve of the squeegee to match the surface of the part, and do your best to make a consistent thickness layer of filler over the whole part (like, 1/32", not 1/4"). Hit the second layer with the sander again and if you've done things right, you'll wind up with a straight smooth part, strong and light. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3Wtjuq06-bPSlSP8DjsYnLmDkA3HZGUZjhOgjS8rmHJtBtaZEvm05djquv_f6i1Rc9wvVDRAe36Z8y2oUvVfF42lpNZ05YrvW7GDh6CZlkFD_oh8AKW-9KEOJbdMUK2fe9oQmk_B1fG3/s1600/duratec1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="adding primer to the cafe seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3Wtjuq06-bPSlSP8DjsYnLmDkA3HZGUZjhOgjS8rmHJtBtaZEvm05djquv_f6i1Rc9wvVDRAe36Z8y2oUvVfF42lpNZ05YrvW7GDh6CZlkFD_oh8AKW-9KEOJbdMUK2fe9oQmk_B1fG3/s320/duratec1.jpg" title="adding primer to the cafe seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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I personally use Duratec surfacing primer next, it's essentially a gelcoat but has better sanding properties, spray the whole part evenly, you can use a cheapo HF spray gun to do it. The part should have a very light ripple, the stuff never lays completely smooth, but the ripple can then be sanded out with a sanding block and some 220 paper. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_jaK72B5YpS3haFNuwHxuvGVABc7TNYCQakC6ie80yJlnFCt2bzgPVF3pXxRUqzznZmP05VqtzHDr_HBd03nqKMRrPiP3FxRljAOhpUoVNNNoLiLEduY6pykXPbqn0C3AFJ9C6FMJBXV/s1600/duratec2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="final sanding of the seat" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_jaK72B5YpS3haFNuwHxuvGVABc7TNYCQakC6ie80yJlnFCt2bzgPVF3pXxRUqzznZmP05VqtzHDr_HBd03nqKMRrPiP3FxRljAOhpUoVNNNoLiLEduY6pykXPbqn0C3AFJ9C6FMJBXV/s320/duratec2.jpg" title="final sanding of the seat" width="320" /></a></div>
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Any spots that are still low after the sanding can be skinned with filler, as they're probably only a hair's width below regular surface. Now you're ready to remove the foam, mount up the seat and prime&paint. </div>
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/" target="_blank">Roc City Cafe Racers</a></div>
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roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-69156954414160171392013-08-29T22:09:00.004-04:002013-09-23T08:25:06.610-04:00DIY CablesEvery now and again I take in service work, often it's fixing "cafe racer" builds which were put together with little consideration or craftsmanship and promptly sold. One of the most common and annoying things I see on these is dropped handlebars with stock length cables, usually by the time they end up in my shop, the cables have either broken or are sticking because they're kinked at some ridiculous angle and have worn through the sheathing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1jkdHNlGEBMx2tv76EM74MT8g9s2nWACSqJIv6TgUgMI-V3XOwLOLEr-ZtC41EL-3T8W7iDuYMkVvvO0ZRmGMxHlzB2fyAvXCt-Ga0CH6bGwcFFRyhRU621sCpWRS_1xU1d5KOV575Yb/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cutting the cafe racer cable to length" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1jkdHNlGEBMx2tv76EM74MT8g9s2nWACSqJIv6TgUgMI-V3XOwLOLEr-ZtC41EL-3T8W7iDuYMkVvvO0ZRmGMxHlzB2fyAvXCt-Ga0CH6bGwcFFRyhRU621sCpWRS_1xU1d5KOV575Yb/s320/IMG_0571.JPG" title="cutting the cable" width="239" /></a></div>
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With just a little patience and a few dollars in parts, any garage builder can make or modify an existing cable to the proper length, preventing the problems that come with poorly routed cables and too much or too little slack. I usually use a special tool I made for crimping the cable housing ends, but in this demo, I'm going to use a really simple tool I made when I very first started fixing bikes. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLABv_6pYRuyfkwC-61BiceRyp-kk7es507xcANCc9IqUs4y3gJby30paLfY3KbFfKx18m05eUa2ibfKlnxnN9Huy89Su-Zqu34c3eR5MYwJ8fLnx5U2PwsFo5sM9H_rrrbz_fefv6dF2/s1600/IMG_0572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="adding ends to the shortened cable" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLABv_6pYRuyfkwC-61BiceRyp-kk7es507xcANCc9IqUs4y3gJby30paLfY3KbFfKx18m05eUa2ibfKlnxnN9Huy89Su-Zqu34c3eR5MYwJ8fLnx5U2PwsFo5sM9H_rrrbz_fefv6dF2/s320/IMG_0572.JPG" title="adding ends" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nothing in this post is especially expensive, and the only thing that really can't be found locally are the cable parts themselves, however, the cable ends, sheathing, sheathing ends and cable itself can be purchased online through motion pro's website. If you're shortening an existing cable, you really only need purchase the housing end, and the cable end. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRIpg1ohU1IPzJS80voPYRYUtX7ougb7NhtD08nXHBpnURWUBd5_0D0ipgKqf96B-C3-shhd19dGGBDtC7uRKYTVT8mvX5-dgpBTvaK8G-1MjdgXUDnhlln969-IRUqOAQZpRl5hJ34Hoy/s1600/IMG_0573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="crimping the end on the motorcycle cable" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRIpg1ohU1IPzJS80voPYRYUtX7ougb7NhtD08nXHBpnURWUBd5_0D0ipgKqf96B-C3-shhd19dGGBDtC7uRKYTVT8mvX5-dgpBTvaK8G-1MjdgXUDnhlln969-IRUqOAQZpRl5hJ34Hoy/s320/IMG_0573.JPG" title="crimping" width="320" /></a></div>
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The first step is to establish the length of the housing, then cut it to length and clean up the ends, I like to use a drill bit to pick out the scraps of the nylon sheath that like to get stuck inside when you cut it. Then pop on the ends, and using a really simple tool, you can stake the end to the housing so it'll never come off. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9CaKIJ4ktWtaZDd6Mpf6l2G6XZ2fd3AnIlC90JOBu1-mJX2Tyl3x_HRZQU0Ln8swDid3ERH96CHpgWh0mPg1vmrNy31DNvFpmHchgQ79EgZRsDPprsz3RtAKnnrLzmTBoNm08cRY7_Ct/s1600/IMG_0574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="crimped end cap on the cable" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9CaKIJ4ktWtaZDd6Mpf6l2G6XZ2fd3AnIlC90JOBu1-mJX2Tyl3x_HRZQU0Ln8swDid3ERH96CHpgWh0mPg1vmrNy31DNvFpmHchgQ79EgZRsDPprsz3RtAKnnrLzmTBoNm08cRY7_Ct/s320/IMG_0574.JPG" title="crimped" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then establish the length of the cable itself, if there are any adjusters in the line, I like to move those to fully tight and make the cable a touch on the long side. The ends for the cable can be purchased online, or can be made with a drill press and file, I make mine from brass on the lathe, but if I did a lot of cables I'd certainly buy a cable end assortment. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtllg-nsqsB27ekFujpVkE6jzdR6EPfXVd-gK-pwO0e2EeP3Gsq6d-F35YOoa5Tn7sZtK_RbYYbWdnT1Nv9PLmr2vMZ9xbOofJw0PTP7OX7kuZH-GdbiNAJcExvJ3wL-IC7utX3DcIBsU/s1600/IMG_0575.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="cable housing finished" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtllg-nsqsB27ekFujpVkE6jzdR6EPfXVd-gK-pwO0e2EeP3Gsq6d-F35YOoa5Tn7sZtK_RbYYbWdnT1Nv9PLmr2vMZ9xbOofJw0PTP7OX7kuZH-GdbiNAJcExvJ3wL-IC7utX3DcIBsU/s320/IMG_0575.JPG" title="done" width="239" /></a></div>
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I keep some silver solder in my solder pot, which is just a scrap stainless part with a cap welded to the end, I find that if you don't have any tools to make something like this, a stainless measuring cup works just fine! Some plumbing flux and a blowtorch are the only other tools you'll need. Just put the ends on the cable, flux it, smoosh the end of the wire so it frays and won't easily slip back through, and dip in the hot solder pot. The flux, if done right, wicks the solder all the way through and around the cable end, ensuring a really good solid bond.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii6NawL6zlioC0KSGT5WMrWkKyAB86ei9prHuWgWKOvSUbLdtkZ0y_mJ3vCjoYSxUGnvd6ZCZH5r9IpzU8L01UYL2Dp0YMECkj4r_wI04ghS-EbhPUTDCT6hQBLvDeLGde5vxCy1hsvMXj/s1600/IMG_0577.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="soldering the ferrules" border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii6NawL6zlioC0KSGT5WMrWkKyAB86ei9prHuWgWKOvSUbLdtkZ0y_mJ3vCjoYSxUGnvd6ZCZH5r9IpzU8L01UYL2Dp0YMECkj4r_wI04ghS-EbhPUTDCT6hQBLvDeLGde5vxCy1hsvMXj/s320/IMG_0577.MOV" title="soldering" width="320" /></a></div>
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After some cleanup on the grinder, or with a hand file, the cable is ready to go, no more shotty cables on your cafe racer!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTImwhcqqszOrQBZ4xcxLpow-9F_SMfuq691aijt_8ecED2jUZlFmL50TJsDi0UOqpZA3gW_b_c27cihfAzNy7UuoaILPlGv_IWU3265xJRRvOhfHCKHNlDYcS_CU7MrzAWDaEqKA_WO63/s1600/IMG_0579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="grinding the extra solder off the new motorcycle control cable" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTImwhcqqszOrQBZ4xcxLpow-9F_SMfuq691aijt_8ecED2jUZlFmL50TJsDi0UOqpZA3gW_b_c27cihfAzNy7UuoaILPlGv_IWU3265xJRRvOhfHCKHNlDYcS_CU7MrzAWDaEqKA_WO63/s320/IMG_0579.JPG" title="grinding" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHEvGHhNJxuqfz_jhzZlvlombqsGCS-MlzFQLfZW4lJb9VOnD0ZJ57f5bNl3UZDatctcQiT2NFGOEkjrqTlk4ef3dp3STI69RHaffLeCIlDF8zgsfsIs_f8anWFMlM2_JiiIKtvfGb0hyphenhyphen/s1600/IMG_0581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a finished cable for your cafe racer" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHEvGHhNJxuqfz_jhzZlvlombqsGCS-MlzFQLfZW4lJb9VOnD0ZJ57f5bNl3UZDatctcQiT2NFGOEkjrqTlk4ef3dp3STI69RHaffLeCIlDF8zgsfsIs_f8anWFMlM2_JiiIKtvfGb0hyphenhyphen/s320/IMG_0581.JPG" title="finished" width="239" /></a></div>
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roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-64329256123220809162013-08-28T18:00:00.001-04:002013-08-28T21:41:26.753-04:00Sand Bending a CB750 ExhaustToday I started reviving an old technique lots of folks like to talk about but hardly anyone can actually do! This technique, known as sand bending, has been around as long as the need to bend pipe (basically since steam power started!). It used to be pretty common practice among hot rodders back in "the day" but has been mostly forgotten since mandrel bending machines and prefab aftermarket exhausts became very common. There was a time when a garage builder had no other option to make the smokestacks for his souped up roadster, and since sand bending isn't especially expensive, it certainly fit the bill. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ_fxJ5b2AitbyqPuctNzREr1Vr36mo9hnGw2M__CR1fzzUihvSSbLL4-EwNNUd1udud7sR4mx-upzGqQN4MNjF8YvSBT-DIjp7U66K_qcmic3SpTVScDriKzBb5QMvtFkvhIYxvBmXES/s1600/IMG_0559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ_fxJ5b2AitbyqPuctNzREr1Vr36mo9hnGw2M__CR1fzzUihvSSbLL4-EwNNUd1udud7sR4mx-upzGqQN4MNjF8YvSBT-DIjp7U66K_qcmic3SpTVScDriKzBb5QMvtFkvhIYxvBmXES/s320/IMG_0559.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In my case, sand bending wasn't preferable due to cost, frankly, buying pre-bent stainless sections and welding them together isn't all that pricey and is a hell of a lot easier! I chose to use sand bending for the project of the day because it lets me build a seamless pipe (better for performance) and the quality is simply far better than what's available from mandrel bending shops now - the last time I ordered mandrel bends, they came scarred from the machine's clamps and I was told that's basically par for the course and if I got better, I was lucky. That just wont do!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig70FQgQG0G5-I6oIVi-lIDK-znpgGlJLv3zKmyDIljeXLo7B8LSdQtv7xBfkVhWoHq9tA_zuM1m6y8k0-x6CPr5EWpKjz4C9pzlJ-6427UOdu8_8Ue0BLGabgiM-flZMjikX-aiLVPrq_/s1600/IMG_0560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig70FQgQG0G5-I6oIVi-lIDK-znpgGlJLv3zKmyDIljeXLo7B8LSdQtv7xBfkVhWoHq9tA_zuM1m6y8k0-x6CPr5EWpKjz4C9pzlJ-6427UOdu8_8Ue0BLGabgiM-flZMjikX-aiLVPrq_/s320/IMG_0560.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since I have used this before on other cafe racers (<a href="http://www.returnofthecaferacers.com/2010/09/honda-cb350-cafe-racer-spitfire.html" target="_blank">the cb350 spitfire</a>, a few cb400f exhausts), I knew what I liked, and what I had trouble with. What I liked was the way I could create any radius bend and make the pipes fit like a factory setup. What I didn't was that it's damned hard to freeform 4 pipes and get everything to match up. Something had to be done before my next attempt.<br />
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Since I am building a 4-1 pipe for a cb750, I know I'll have to make the turns from the exhaust port all line up especially well because that's a really visible area that would just look bad if it wasn't tip top. I also know that the pipes won't be a simple plane, there will be bends coming off in different angles if it's to work right, so I decided to devise a good form and clamp jig to keep my bends consistent as well as to let me twist the tube where necessary. <br />
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I tossed up a chunk of aluminum on the good ol' bridgeport machine and turned it into a softjaw clamp that matches my 1.5 OD stainless tube just perfect, clamp down the 4 10mm screws and the tube can really be bent to hell and back without slipping in the clamp and especially without scarring the tube by using a simple vise clamp. <br />
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The radius form comes from a piece of 5" pipe I sawed up and welded together, when all's said and done, this jig lets me form a whole 90 degree bend the same way every time, then reclamp the part to form the second turn where the pipe goes into the collector, any intermediate twists and bends are also possible by either holding the clamp in the vise and freeforming, or reclamping on the exhaust pipe in a different area and using the jig again. It was at least 3 hours work to build, but it's a tool worth its weight in gold for making custom pipes. <br />
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<br />roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-88819614516310470762012-09-20T08:47:00.001-04:002012-09-20T08:56:09.968-04:00Manx CB350<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeG45nnEJGkKSeBxsnrjMCQWkPux-qcmL-LfeyisdkWofbuujRwozpAVImWEsADIdWW_GTz8GvxD2CvOAHNJ0sAkA3713Zl5kezvaIwe4URirneVdgm15V4oYNuooNgwGMx71CAZYrkSiB/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeG45nnEJGkKSeBxsnrjMCQWkPux-qcmL-LfeyisdkWofbuujRwozpAVImWEsADIdWW_GTz8GvxD2CvOAHNJ0sAkA3713Zl5kezvaIwe4URirneVdgm15V4oYNuooNgwGMx71CAZYrkSiB/s320/DSC_0306.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honda 350 twin "Manx" by Roc City Cafe Racers</td></tr>
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Roc City is a little shop that turns out really cool bikes every now and again. While the spotlight shines on quick turnaround builds with bolt on parts and catchy release parties, the crew at Roc City keeps plugging away, burning the oil long into the night. </div>
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Every now and again, a bike comes out of the shop, with no fanfare, no banners, no instagramming or press kits. We'd rather put that time into the bike, that's what makes Roc City unique. </div>
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We build bikes for the joy of riding. </div>
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And our bikes fully express the joy we find in building.<br />
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Bike built by Sean at Roc City<br />
Photos by Patrick at Patrickjstefano.com </div>
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<br />roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-59029303916600908972012-09-09T12:16:00.001-04:002012-09-09T12:16:40.890-04:00RocketGarage Cafe Racer: Pin Up & Cafe Racer<a href="http://rocket-garage.blogspot.com/2012/09/pin-up-cafe-racer.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+blogspot%2FMvENa+%28RocketGarage%29&utm_content=FaceBook">RocketGarage Cafe Racer: Pin Up & Cafe Racer</a>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-19379982899608207812012-07-16T18:42:00.002-04:002013-09-19T06:52:29.482-04:00Making an aluminum cafe racer seat<br />
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I sometimes get the feeling that people who are into custom metalwork for their bikes or cars either think that making those parts is either extremely easy (I saw Jessie James build that tank with his English wheel!), or some sort of black magic. It's really neither, TV simplifies things too much, but working with sheet metal isn't anything more than a trade that isn't very common anymore, there's no magic to it at all. So I'm not revealing any secrets by showing how to make a pretty simple part, just doing a bit to preserve an old school skill.<br />
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So here's the step by step.<br />
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First I cut out a blank from some 14ga aluminum, I've worked out the shape over the years so I can make a seat just about the same size every time without having to trim much off at the end.</div>
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A cafe seat is typically just a hemisphere, which is really just a simple compound curve, there's a curve along the axis of the seat, and across the axis, a fender is really the same type of shape, just with one curve having a larger radius than the other!</div>
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To start forming the sheet, the middle needs to be stretched out, stretching the metal makes it thinner, so it takes up more surface area, if its edges can't move, it has to pop out, so that's how you "dome" metal. </div>
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Since I don't want to only stretch the metal (it would get really stupidly thin if I did), I shrink the edges to bring out the doming of the middle more. Shrinking actually makes the metal thicker, so it takes up less surface area, and tends to tuck in, so it pops any doming done to the sheet. </div>
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Shrinking is done by creating tucks at the edges, and then hammering them against an anvil, because of the shape of the tuck, the hammering actually gathers the metal together making it thicker, cool huh!</div>
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I use the English wheel mostly for small amounts of metal moving, it's a great tool for a specific job, it can dome metal, but not as fast as hammering, and it can't really shrink. It's this that makes me chuckle a little when some TV show shows some metals guy making a tank (but only shows them using the wheel!). </div>
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When the blank is shrunk and stretched a lot, it really needs to be wheeled to give it a smooth surface again, otherwise it's not really possible to keep stretching and shrinking efficiently. </div>
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This would be a rough wheeling, there's not much focus on getting a really nice planished finish, but just to bring the surface into some regularity. After this, the blank goes on to more shrinking and stretching, you can really see how much things can move! </div>
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After a few rounds of back and forth between the tuck shrinker, wheel and shotbag, I switch over to a larger radius anvil for the wheel (as close to the natural radius of the blank as you can get without going larger). It's with this setup and a constant light pressure that I planish the blank, it takes a lot of finesse and practice to get the blank really smooth and straight. </div>
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Now that the blank is formed, it's on to trimming to shape and building the rest of the seat! -I'll be posting that next. </div>
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/alloy-bullet-cafe-racer-seat" target="_blank">Check it out!</a><br />
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roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-80444476468269680472012-07-08T12:33:00.001-04:002012-07-08T12:38:49.982-04:00Handmade Stainless BarsI had a chance to document how I make my stainless clipons by hand the other day, I get a lot of questions as to why they're better than the other import clipons all over the market so I figured I should show what goes into a set.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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All polished up these are probably the nicest clipons out there, and the best deal for the money for sure, since they're 100% stainless, they're not going to rust through or have a layer of cheap chrome to flake off later, if they get dull, just polish them up and they'll look brand new.</div>
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To start, I cut out the blank tube lengths, plus a little extra so I can turn the exposed ends on the lathe. I use 304 stainless, one of the more expensive and durable stainless grades around.</div>
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Like anything coming from the shop, these are each made by hand on tools that are at least 50 years old! There's something nice about using big old American chunks of iron to make things, they don't build 'em like they used to!</div>
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Each bar gets coped precisely to the clamp tube to guarantee a really strong weld and little or no distortion, none of the cheapo Chinese units are made this way, probably because it would take too much time. That's the beauty of products from little shops who actually take the time to do it right!</div>
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About the only modern tool in the shop is my Miller TIG, which I love to death, I don't know how else I'd put welds this pretty on things. The flanges were lasercut by a local shop who does excellent work, a flat flange spreads the clamping load a lot better than just welding a nut to the tube. Those welds would probably pass a nuclear plant test too, a bit overkill, but Hell, I'm picky!</div>
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Welding the coped bars shows how the technique makes for a really clean consistent and super strong weld, I don't ever grind the welds down because I feel like they're a bit of art themselves. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5DXe6_FmcJkOTzRoVRD2rAt5f74pMAzn3v0Dc6ljB6eUs6xStz-Fd471YcHTsZXa6zPN2hx-e217COsb5Dg912ojq0M5HTnu5O9x9DkL6BuRl48iNEkId7qONiQtx5IDCTEGtpAIPh7Z/s1600/0530121636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5DXe6_FmcJkOTzRoVRD2rAt5f74pMAzn3v0Dc6ljB6eUs6xStz-Fd471YcHTsZXa6zPN2hx-e217COsb5Dg912ojq0M5HTnu5O9x9DkL6BuRl48iNEkId7qONiQtx5IDCTEGtpAIPh7Z/s320/0530121636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I apply some heat tint remover to the welds, then polish the bars up and add on the stainless bolts and locknuts. Some people have asked me for details about how to route the bars for the control wiring, and with stainless it's really easy, you can use any grinding, filing or drilling tool as long as it hasn't been used on mild steel before. Since the bars are stainless, there's no need to worry about rust starting where they were drilled.<br />
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<a href="http://www.roccitycafe.com/item.php?path=store/wcauniclip2" target="_blank">Check 'em out!</a></div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-55110481573177858742012-05-24T10:53:00.000-04:002012-05-24T16:32:36.623-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I had a customer who ordered a Phoenix tank for his CB750 ask about installing an oil tank to replace the ugly stock unit, not completely knowing how much work it would be on this particular bike, I shot him a number and he told me to go ahead! After fabricating the top half of the tank, I set about coming up with a way to fit 2-4 quarts of oil in there too. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJm5VKwzrG0eLSVdMMXDXNt1vegt3DJf8PLmynvKewgLVD4u-51l7udHyeVkSnoX3TJnapHEDSm19_laEEjH-ezSrAW2QW8Z9VtxIX_Dgha00gH-SwRo5wXepG6wWhVG3WEYrv9IQer-9/s1600/0519121423a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJm5VKwzrG0eLSVdMMXDXNt1vegt3DJf8PLmynvKewgLVD4u-51l7udHyeVkSnoX3TJnapHEDSm19_laEEjH-ezSrAW2QW8Z9VtxIX_Dgha00gH-SwRo5wXepG6wWhVG3WEYrv9IQer-9/s320/0519121423a.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I had to build the tank in a big U shape to clear the backbone of the frame, so it would need two oil drains as well, otherwise one half would always stay unused. Because I was building the tank on an empty frame, I never thought about clearance to the engine head...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT04wEhQbPc8G_UR0q4q8xxbGRd9O849Aa0daHOw13rzPuzELDXTTzrwMXRqsToq_YaqB4qnuXWFvzB1t7g45EQTd368X5E-hxdo9WVzPQ43ayOHmDDQzQauFsvcrVm-SWnXXLqLcx9vxr/s1600/0519121601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT04wEhQbPc8G_UR0q4q8xxbGRd9O849Aa0daHOw13rzPuzELDXTTzrwMXRqsToq_YaqB4qnuXWFvzB1t7g45EQTd368X5E-hxdo9WVzPQ43ayOHmDDQzQauFsvcrVm-SWnXXLqLcx9vxr/s320/0519121601.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Turns out the oil feeds would need to be installed on the inside of the tank, and fitted with 90 degree connectors to route the lines back along the frame instead of just straight down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPQ-QZXbgYvUhBSZ0U51vJ_iyLuONq8Ba_FSfqDWt2g0iEwfbwymyTXRATp8FMqnXZOEkHeLw3elcu1yOj1FH0FJoRBPofiyyMmYEWJs3JiGzgMGPhOij_VOISLIe-INWOvRZNtxa1LUq/s1600/0519121834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPQ-QZXbgYvUhBSZ0U51vJ_iyLuONq8Ba_FSfqDWt2g0iEwfbwymyTXRATp8FMqnXZOEkHeLw3elcu1yOj1FH0FJoRBPofiyyMmYEWJs3JiGzgMGPhOij_VOISLIe-INWOvRZNtxa1LUq/s320/0519121834.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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So I removed the weld in bungs and installed some custom machined ones where they'd fit best.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6Zz8RMP9-3DIbw4p8PL7o4Wb2v64o1YCivyxzFR8cSzmj84Q9Ep34IrA5Y_U6bqtzI93_I6_1BG1jw-NLObttcsyEUi_HuGFEOTQsML-aKSvykw7L-Uu5HTjwz30Hb-mW3XZwkYfUgHX/s1600/0521121356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6Zz8RMP9-3DIbw4p8PL7o4Wb2v64o1YCivyxzFR8cSzmj84Q9Ep34IrA5Y_U6bqtzI93_I6_1BG1jw-NLObttcsyEUi_HuGFEOTQsML-aKSvykw7L-Uu5HTjwz30Hb-mW3XZwkYfUgHX/s320/0521121356.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Then I finished up the bottom of the tank. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3luvo16HilElH3NfkH6QwZskvvv3qTDcbtLwUcsDuGjMTo49Ds34SH-bJjo9U5P6TLWPjrLjeoc78iYKLQAYeoxCqDu8enVMo3ZXHvMqoizVM3kLYuRQO8b5qkJFSqVKtUjZK7_X-Tjt/s1600/0521121541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3luvo16HilElH3NfkH6QwZskvvv3qTDcbtLwUcsDuGjMTo49Ds34SH-bJjo9U5P6TLWPjrLjeoc78iYKLQAYeoxCqDu8enVMo3ZXHvMqoizVM3kLYuRQO8b5qkJFSqVKtUjZK7_X-Tjt/s320/0521121541.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3a53FK1Bg2Kv9pVzhE2oU3pGkSMBdy04Iw45tRJkXjlUx4r3Oo7maXWNUGb73m4uC5d_K6wouwy-y7299JgOEdFSWlho2bXUm4O2FurImEv4tWHXvfkRnyipRXUKUKv8QNPBBgGELJLUM/s1600/0519121551a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3a53FK1Bg2Kv9pVzhE2oU3pGkSMBdy04Iw45tRJkXjlUx4r3Oo7maXWNUGb73m4uC5d_K6wouwy-y7299JgOEdFSWlho2bXUm4O2FurImEv4tWHXvfkRnyipRXUKUKv8QNPBBgGELJLUM/s320/0519121551a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjzN7cEgpib3ZJi4YW_CyU106iV-xQv_JIw8bKhIlwn1vU9Tggj1yKG6aGKvJweBudo13FwuwoMjysGWcPuh26PwbXNeuZLCUENoxoNMvp96UdS_K9LLTPRm5diBRekMjNNTh00vhUwub/s1600/0519121422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjzN7cEgpib3ZJi4YW_CyU106iV-xQv_JIw8bKhIlwn1vU9Tggj1yKG6aGKvJweBudo13FwuwoMjysGWcPuh26PwbXNeuZLCUENoxoNMvp96UdS_K9LLTPRm5diBRekMjNNTh00vhUwub/s320/0519121422.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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And the top...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXoj_Z2kldJcvgAfZdID8q_Jaav7vyznzbdeAfPXHSb2eig4QD6H539CQttNhHWWltu3GCsY1TYiJpiofPLjPar7bW7ldQGl4qVd3j0QpFZcpvTZr7M3sLFMqeC3-qrOqVwG-gG9zwxbb/s1600/0522121153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXoj_Z2kldJcvgAfZdID8q_Jaav7vyznzbdeAfPXHSb2eig4QD6H539CQttNhHWWltu3GCsY1TYiJpiofPLjPar7bW7ldQGl4qVd3j0QpFZcpvTZr7M3sLFMqeC3-qrOqVwG-gG9zwxbb/s320/0522121153.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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And then sanded and polished the tank...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_T4azKh185LQbNGx4UY3dlPsowEoIE-bv6zgwNLdaEOCkWZ6Towg-_Wq1eaEgT01jKFMZiIZQ5QcXHxVZ5nG27n2UEzXp_1hvRkmYMSAJifFZMx3WMengXK_7_WnjaVRC7EJaTKGnLVBN/s1600/0524121536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_T4azKh185LQbNGx4UY3dlPsowEoIE-bv6zgwNLdaEOCkWZ6Towg-_Wq1eaEgT01jKFMZiIZQ5QcXHxVZ5nG27n2UEzXp_1hvRkmYMSAJifFZMx3WMengXK_7_WnjaVRC7EJaTKGnLVBN/s320/0524121536.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Then fitted the seat I also made for it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_T4azKh185LQbNGx4UY3dlPsowEoIE-bv6zgwNLdaEOCkWZ6Towg-_Wq1eaEgT01jKFMZiIZQ5QcXHxVZ5nG27n2UEzXp_1hvRkmYMSAJifFZMx3WMengXK_7_WnjaVRC7EJaTKGnLVBN/s1600/0524121536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-7546490467918263552011-03-25T21:25:00.000-04:002011-03-25T21:25:04.763-04:00XS MANX<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixxFwCp1wTjdYz3ht1XLQ4jooEJ02hxdiD184EL3UqumFYb6P_bS1qGK4XsVWti-rpjg7RVDtRN7IkahUVYsMB9YILc1v4RB1aT6hnKrsQS8blCYLjLubgbq5Xx-Y5DW9MAMyHp-L1ngt/s1600/DSCN1620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixxFwCp1wTjdYz3ht1XLQ4jooEJ02hxdiD184EL3UqumFYb6P_bS1qGK4XsVWti-rpjg7RVDtRN7IkahUVYsMB9YILc1v4RB1aT6hnKrsQS8blCYLjLubgbq5Xx-Y5DW9MAMyHp-L1ngt/s320/DSCN1620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2P_ynV3BsQROtA3Py4gRmDHxw7mI6_zt-C8xBhu3KxX4URXnH7fQM7TxlCXbvhqllTAg1zDI-9nwmsQ8R1uBG8obKTYdhWahiXHhvZWxrHB4G9jMx-UaCCZvTGFsaHUCO5niVBQAZc21o/s1600/DSCN1619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2P_ynV3BsQROtA3Py4gRmDHxw7mI6_zt-C8xBhu3KxX4URXnH7fQM7TxlCXbvhqllTAg1zDI-9nwmsQ8R1uBG8obKTYdhWahiXHhvZWxrHB4G9jMx-UaCCZvTGFsaHUCO5niVBQAZc21o/s320/DSCN1619.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVn9I61kVRJRhFZLhqPvyddZyLVMNhDTb-dZqnGbEtT1Akmm9JktRiOon1uen1AwpR1Yr3EdVaatr1gf7Ksy6CNJ1RugqfHxXqNVrEYxAGRT9gAH0MSnPBZObQJ0z_828v7-3wKRrmdJQK/s1600/DSCN1618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVn9I61kVRJRhFZLhqPvyddZyLVMNhDTb-dZqnGbEtT1Akmm9JktRiOon1uen1AwpR1Yr3EdVaatr1gf7Ksy6CNJ1RugqfHxXqNVrEYxAGRT9gAH0MSnPBZObQJ0z_828v7-3wKRrmdJQK/s320/DSCN1618.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Finished up the fabrication on the tank, including the hinge, rubber mounting and latch. The ignition and seat lock came in so I'll be working on finishing up the seat next. Tried test fitting up a fender for the rear, but I will fabricate a new one instead, something wider that will extend to the swingarm pivot in the front.roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-47559405249868848792011-03-15T00:07:00.000-04:002011-03-15T00:07:36.336-04:00XS MANX<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp9ktAfjkkfspzwRW8hs9gifPX0woN4lld_WpdT310PSu2A14DR0h0OoTtl4Aeslp98Yqlyyz58VX1ZDP0pyrTLTJMsMR3HLe-6IixHnpKImLnEI1LLbSZYbPa0A8ycxs5RnIBf99B5bs-/s1600/DSCN1612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp9ktAfjkkfspzwRW8hs9gifPX0woN4lld_WpdT310PSu2A14DR0h0OoTtl4Aeslp98Yqlyyz58VX1ZDP0pyrTLTJMsMR3HLe-6IixHnpKImLnEI1LLbSZYbPa0A8ycxs5RnIBf99B5bs-/s320/DSCN1612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Lots got done on the XS this weekend, the battery was located and a mount built so that it will sit inside and under the rear of the tank, keeping it's weight centered, as opposed to some builds which thoughtlessly stuff it under the seat, where the extra mass is at exactly the wrong place. The rear frame hoop was sheeted in so that the electronics can be mounted, some of the wiring was cleaned up and all the remaining sockets were replaced with gold plated connectors. The seat was also built for the most part, it will end up being covered in leather or vinyl, so the aluminum wasn't polished. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJKBAzPEd82PmSrWT1G6EsoRmHh3AtAxLQWKe8lXHPf0XoXlfNUpCllOLoKUPXMvxf36SrKxaod6DbOoaH6NyO8ED3HqnuYkONYWe5EZnKZ9v19ziWcqAecotjSk3wR5Ft2t8epAYU16bS/s1600/DSCN1613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJKBAzPEd82PmSrWT1G6EsoRmHh3AtAxLQWKe8lXHPf0XoXlfNUpCllOLoKUPXMvxf36SrKxaod6DbOoaH6NyO8ED3HqnuYkONYWe5EZnKZ9v19ziWcqAecotjSk3wR5Ft2t8epAYU16bS/s320/DSCN1613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> The tank still needs to have the bottom welded in, mounts fabricated and then matching frame tabs welded on to the frame, now that the battery is mounted, building the bottom of the tank can go ahead. The seat will be hinged and lock as well, so some more work needs to be done there as well. The kickstart relocation is almost done, and once finished, the exhaust can be built and routed so that there is no interference. Shocks, chain and swingarm should be on the menu for this week.</div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-9203320639520220032011-03-07T22:46:00.000-05:002011-03-07T22:46:42.207-05:00XS Manx<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pmiZkDLa4VbhLDahiwf1j4IFTGn3dLOkA_hzLTzxzRcJ0iFYG06O_oHskwBdaOrf6Nx299Z5qKT5y2l8kQO6pyzAN7kX1pJwCY0xhw9XNd270GdjefO85tzkm0SFPcYfF1qeFPB5bPNG/s1600/0307111644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pmiZkDLa4VbhLDahiwf1j4IFTGn3dLOkA_hzLTzxzRcJ0iFYG06O_oHskwBdaOrf6Nx299Z5qKT5y2l8kQO6pyzAN7kX1pJwCY0xhw9XNd270GdjefO85tzkm0SFPcYfF1qeFPB5bPNG/s320/0307111644.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I started carving the tank from a built up block of insulating foam over the weekend, and when I was happy with the shape, I cut the pattern at intervals and used it to build a plywood buck for the final tank. The pieces are interlocking so it's very strong for clamping your pieces as you fit and form the next section of metal. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuQrAuxT4YKgcRrZ8sJRSiDMC5LWPlHcJ3_Yitj9yEkyrAopXA-N0fdIwakmX7LiWevJ8kizlp6d-SfIumhpBTsiW3pGq8oodZjNT7TTDuummic27L201rEt5Buno6FzTrnFkdqI09qau/s1600/0307112136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuQrAuxT4YKgcRrZ8sJRSiDMC5LWPlHcJ3_Yitj9yEkyrAopXA-N0fdIwakmX7LiWevJ8kizlp6d-SfIumhpBTsiW3pGq8oodZjNT7TTDuummic27L201rEt5Buno6FzTrnFkdqI09qau/s320/0307112136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This shows the beginning of the forming process, the pattern is broken down into workable segments which are then cut from aluminum and formed to fit the pattern, then clamped so the next section can be formed and fit, the two kneewells have been formed in this picture and will be finished up and tacked to the main section before moving on to the tank sides. I tend to form both the left and right parts for tanks before tacking, as this keeps things more symmetrical.<br />
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Toby spent the day on the lathe working on our elegant solution to the interference problem caused by the kickstart lever and the rearset controls. I didn't have room to take pictures of this, but the finished mechanism will be documented.roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-88532686130179717552011-03-02T19:43:00.000-05:002011-03-02T19:43:06.303-05:00XS Manx<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANHFmfiPRc4JdyGZ7ayViJJpL27sSFXPDQS1pSl9agtkhMGEKJ50S0pLEkQr_m2oQTjyFQNcVdssu28n0iGXg-dk5Zx8poGMXw6qGkN9XVuRrtvfFehIy5V-v0mad4e0BFj2me6gXgDV/s1600/DSCN1610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANHFmfiPRc4JdyGZ7ayViJJpL27sSFXPDQS1pSl9agtkhMGEKJ50S0pLEkQr_m2oQTjyFQNcVdssu28n0iGXg-dk5Zx8poGMXw6qGkN9XVuRrtvfFehIy5V-v0mad4e0BFj2me6gXgDV/s320/DSCN1610.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I spent the better part of an afternoon making a hanger for the new brake caliper, to adapt it to a 320mm rotor and the fork tube from the 1100. I also machined a spacer for the rotor because the caliper was very close to the spokes. Seems to have all gone well, though we discovered that the rotor is actually warped, and since the setup is all done, we'll have to replace it with the same type. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyZ6p74-LNbP0CPn5B9tByfM9WjlFc17XCLZcPziTARGQXzy0FAcpcXrPV83tZCwdspAhpjyPFA3TQxntFLCCP-7fTSSAE0tSd4gJi_7gGr5Rjeuuqiy9tlwPtL5MrI6oa572Ep32JEya/s1600/DSCN1605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyZ6p74-LNbP0CPn5B9tByfM9WjlFc17XCLZcPziTARGQXzy0FAcpcXrPV83tZCwdspAhpjyPFA3TQxntFLCCP-7fTSSAE0tSd4gJi_7gGr5Rjeuuqiy9tlwPtL5MrI6oa572Ep32JEya/s320/DSCN1605.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Toby and I worked Monday to get a lot done on the bike, starting with getting the engine back in the frame. That took some bubble wrap and wrestling, but it went in and mounted up well. The wheels are back on for now, so we can check the swingarm and neck angle, and see what kind of offset to build into the fork yokes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Some $5 angle finders come in really handy.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzNdsMuZ0O7OPgvrXeqHx2BvSoM7Q0vAR4VLHGD1MIhtexqGZyJvoja002-9gwbFWusrNIIkqbeM_aWPDy_5k_1_24GO5mE21QoVkpLWjTFhHyRMGKwyczkgXvM0UCt3K3HF9ONFved6S/s1600/DSCN1608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzNdsMuZ0O7OPgvrXeqHx2BvSoM7Q0vAR4VLHGD1MIhtexqGZyJvoja002-9gwbFWusrNIIkqbeM_aWPDy_5k_1_24GO5mE21QoVkpLWjTFhHyRMGKwyczkgXvM0UCt3K3HF9ONFved6S/s320/DSCN1608.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Fnnn6RR7QtTxuCOqFF2LbFKqRFzcchimh2M7Ab4UTlgFPnP84A1nhSmovmlpZUVr7xPTHqATleNiv9Zji9ixsX3HUJuEE6n586QJ5OHeaJ0uWXaNGcAmhZp63CjRY7I7VXgQgCpWzjDJ/s1600/DSCN1609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Fnnn6RR7QtTxuCOqFF2LbFKqRFzcchimh2M7Ab4UTlgFPnP84A1nhSmovmlpZUVr7xPTHqATleNiv9Zji9ixsX3HUJuEE6n586QJ5OHeaJ0uWXaNGcAmhZp63CjRY7I7VXgQgCpWzjDJ/s320/DSCN1609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">With the length of the xs1100 forks, the swingarm angle came in about 11 degrees and rake was about 26, which is pretty good for a stable but agile bike without much squat under power. The swingarm will be replaced with a box section steel arm, though the length will likely be kept the same. The offset on the stock yokes is probably too high, and will be decreased by about 20mm when the new yokes are machined. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGTpvAD8vCGpj22guotpgzz8O38OgyG-UWp5Nd9zVPU9ssioLEBibcA-W2BMFdksNUZduEQEB310p6kHh5sqYy4ZhmfkCjQ6dUsog0UVDBIFr7aSLpnrKyu7sA01QjeVKGXvShOUBQHDJ/s1600/DSCN1607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGTpvAD8vCGpj22guotpgzz8O38OgyG-UWp5Nd9zVPU9ssioLEBibcA-W2BMFdksNUZduEQEB310p6kHh5sqYy4ZhmfkCjQ6dUsog0UVDBIFr7aSLpnrKyu7sA01QjeVKGXvShOUBQHDJ/s320/DSCN1607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I spent a good amount of time getting the riding position set before starting to design the tank, I first machined plates to bolt to the frame, and accept the bolt for the footpeg, then moved and moved it around until it was right, and matched well with the position of the handlebars, which also got moved a lot. Right now the position is very good, no weight on the bars and feet under the rider c/g. I'm using some of my adjustable stainless rearsets on the project as well, along with my adjustable clipons. Good combo in my opinion. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28fAUzZ8o9Kc90iXMH8ip4-KwlKaa5ZqX_6wdEFa9Sl10HW5ZJ2qBpIRvg92Vk0RXPtJ3SfcrGylSKEPts7QpD-0d0Z5BYxDv8-8tUEbIrPfYBb94ut57bNvjvKiSkAmEoGs6P7k38adK/s1600/DSCN1606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28fAUzZ8o9Kc90iXMH8ip4-KwlKaa5ZqX_6wdEFa9Sl10HW5ZJ2qBpIRvg92Vk0RXPtJ3SfcrGylSKEPts7QpD-0d0Z5BYxDv8-8tUEbIrPfYBb94ut57bNvjvKiSkAmEoGs6P7k38adK/s320/DSCN1606.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">While Toby was machining a part for a special kickstart relocating mechanism, I decided that I could go ahead and work on the front fender, since the front end won't change from here on out. This took me a couple hours and draws on vintage racing fenders for the look. The masking tape will hold things in place until I can screw the bracket into the fender. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-62720996407442048362011-02-20T14:20:00.000-05:002011-02-20T14:20:50.793-05:00XS MANX<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWegETxIqIJ4QDvL8HBe8Wg_yh5qIskRkXrg_QL56-QxS7IafmJzyHC4_jjhpgq4HnqBvQms9HDgMalQO_FFqymlL_GsEeRoktVRdoFq74foMDmP53j0ODKYhctasoipyWliL99wbiy8xr/s1600/DSCN1602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWegETxIqIJ4QDvL8HBe8Wg_yh5qIskRkXrg_QL56-QxS7IafmJzyHC4_jjhpgq4HnqBvQms9HDgMalQO_FFqymlL_GsEeRoktVRdoFq74foMDmP53j0ODKYhctasoipyWliL99wbiy8xr/s320/DSCN1602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>We're running xs1100 forks on the front of the bike for additional stiffness, but before reassembling the forks and putting them back on the bike, some changes were made. Compression blowoff valves were machined and installed to allow for tuning both the low speed and high speed compression damping rates, rebound rate will be controlled mostly by the choice of fork oil. The stock fork caps were also tossed and replaced with new caps which allow full variation in preload. New fork clamps will also be machined with an offset designed specifically for the bike.roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-42721342609034133952011-02-18T23:51:00.000-05:002011-02-18T23:51:20.424-05:00XS Manx<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6-YqouRmFr2bu-LjmRiPRa1FnNUft_os4qQZ6KtAACXQHI_SXFDkx0660iFjNifZYjZy676Humk7j08bbB8daoRON86feFP2l3Q69Q0L06bJ19k5MBQlWz4FrI5ffUjbaApen0AJ8JBd/s1600/DSCN1590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6-YqouRmFr2bu-LjmRiPRa1FnNUft_os4qQZ6KtAACXQHI_SXFDkx0660iFjNifZYjZy676Humk7j08bbB8daoRON86feFP2l3Q69Q0L06bJ19k5MBQlWz4FrI5ffUjbaApen0AJ8JBd/s320/DSCN1590.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I pulled some long hours in the shop the last few days to get the wheels for the Manx bike built, we're going to use H profile 18x2.15 rims laced with Buchanan stainless spokes to the stock hubs for this bike. The smaller front wheel should make the front end a bit more nimble, alloy rims came stock on the XS650, but the stock spokes were in poor shape, so it made sense to go with stainless, polish everything, and rebuild the wheels properly. <br />
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Lacing the rims takes the better part of an hour, truing takes the rest, but the result is definitely worth while. Polishing these parts up from the snotty stock parts took hours and hours, but again, was well worth it for what will be a show stopping bike. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGezvAhueWiHh9r_QekTbgvedEeCoZOAuAmX9PFA19GX69uOPIH8kp0w8TyLJNF-S_H4XBgzRbGR7NzCObMnwSaCT_RIkKx47gxcvBdHAh0C-PjBe6nTqHPGW3dinqeniLET9FZXu4A5NA/s1600/DSCN1598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGezvAhueWiHh9r_QekTbgvedEeCoZOAuAmX9PFA19GX69uOPIH8kp0w8TyLJNF-S_H4XBgzRbGR7NzCObMnwSaCT_RIkKx47gxcvBdHAh0C-PjBe6nTqHPGW3dinqeniLET9FZXu4A5NA/s320/DSCN1598.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWgMqTmqom4pCez_u5R6JErU9iNKeA7g0Fo_qFA3MhfgdgTMUcwoUvxoYqL3NTQ1jTnG5MXBHbw5ssdinfXGIgLPmmM0UuTgXge7wmccQuGQ832U1akQNFR-GRKkcITlA2rHVDEq4e94OD/s1600/DSCN1599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWgMqTmqom4pCez_u5R6JErU9iNKeA7g0Fo_qFA3MhfgdgTMUcwoUvxoYqL3NTQ1jTnG5MXBHbw5ssdinfXGIgLPmmM0UuTgXge7wmccQuGQ832U1akQNFR-GRKkcITlA2rHVDEq4e94OD/s320/DSCN1599.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I got the wheels to Toby yesterday and he was able to mount the new tires, and balance the wheels. He chose Continental "ContiGO" tires, because of the sticky compound, and modern performance design. I think they look great on the wheels, the front wheel is being stopped by a modern two piston sliding caliper on a 320mm Ducati rotor. </div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-42952975372905664952011-02-18T23:23:00.000-05:002011-02-18T23:23:47.682-05:00XS Manx<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIsQv1XtaphTjKAs646_f9TjcJhPT5r99N1LmkDNf1qQ19r5VOPpQ_LgJOABu8_QpZ5zEScyUUpZRSt_3b0WBn1JA3auzdQdf9zsL10psdPJkSLmyPY6xgOVYkXCykS1PSjEZ9I_8vTj9/s1600/DSCN1597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIsQv1XtaphTjKAs646_f9TjcJhPT5r99N1LmkDNf1qQ19r5VOPpQ_LgJOABu8_QpZ5zEScyUUpZRSt_3b0WBn1JA3auzdQdf9zsL10psdPJkSLmyPY6xgOVYkXCykS1PSjEZ9I_8vTj9/s320/DSCN1597.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIsQv1XtaphTjKAs646_f9TjcJhPT5r99N1LmkDNf1qQ19r5VOPpQ_LgJOABu8_QpZ5zEScyUUpZRSt_3b0WBn1JA3auzdQdf9zsL10psdPJkSLmyPY6xgOVYkXCykS1PSjEZ9I_8vTj9/s1600/DSCN1597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Toby finished the engine and brought it to the shop tonight, looking great, it's definitely the nicest engine I've seen. He went through the entire engine, piece by piece and inspected everything, replacing any parts that were worn or damaged. The cylinders were honed, valves lapped, all the goodies to make the engine run better than it did when it came from the factory.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbn7gREblc5dEegpNwU8KItHaoXrxwwttamm5cWHBP8Y9jlh8z1IH2KkzK4KhT4XOCir-0nixoxEP6XsTGQE8qxO72VgHmNABLFxsvpElzXcyJZwGax8KUuu_2n7IrhhWHSWrXUPl3OKW/s1600/DSCN1600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbn7gREblc5dEegpNwU8KItHaoXrxwwttamm5cWHBP8Y9jlh8z1IH2KkzK4KhT4XOCir-0nixoxEP6XsTGQE8qxO72VgHmNABLFxsvpElzXcyJZwGax8KUuu_2n7IrhhWHSWrXUPl3OKW/s320/DSCN1600.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Toby bead blasted all the engine parts and put on a fresh coat of enamel too, much better looking than the stock black muck that came from the factory. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewoycPmYuHJmCsd2IICDZYxtMuCfJ-agYNBESdjBdOL4XKjvYudAy1ocTXiIKj4soKJsfwQJe7hlmLAGADXrhA8i6nThNct7objolZtSdQQE44d2BD_RQA6LLnYFfmBOmwDTeQYwuM0Z8/s1600/DSCN1601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewoycPmYuHJmCsd2IICDZYxtMuCfJ-agYNBESdjBdOL4XKjvYudAy1ocTXiIKj4soKJsfwQJe7hlmLAGADXrhA8i6nThNct7objolZtSdQQE44d2BD_RQA6LLnYFfmBOmwDTeQYwuM0Z8/s320/DSCN1601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Detail shots of the engine are impressive.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-27771963654480034812011-02-07T20:41:00.000-05:002011-02-07T20:41:14.905-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtp1niG2RBCp6IRU3cHWAWdGaTBwmxWO151w4idoS2ZBeLer1xuw4sjRxTsihY5ODdjcV4EIwhedMWPFw45rY-2MU-yEeuhAOefuCQKfIEF9DiIiVRK9RT5CO8dy8Vde7aZVyjDN-AmCr/s1600/0120111910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtp1niG2RBCp6IRU3cHWAWdGaTBwmxWO151w4idoS2ZBeLer1xuw4sjRxTsihY5ODdjcV4EIwhedMWPFw45rY-2MU-yEeuhAOefuCQKfIEF9DiIiVRK9RT5CO8dy8Vde7aZVyjDN-AmCr/s320/0120111910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Toby is finishing up stripping the extra junk from the frame, quite a few hours went into just getting all the tabs, mounts and hangers off before we can add a flat rear hoop and some bracing. The frame will be sandblasted next so any welding can be done on clean metal.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUEKN8GA5-_ZkvaeuqGxftZ7Hl8iXGNaTbOj1ycYlv_xrRThe06g5Jjcbsgl9x82KkJIH6U5cLP8gxgTgq_Zyfw8l_2FWUd-o4fsANFdMISxeFD8B7TYuJamoTZ0NSZNFUYhyphenhyphencDFFxlay/s1600/0115112100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUEKN8GA5-_ZkvaeuqGxftZ7Hl8iXGNaTbOj1ycYlv_xrRThe06g5Jjcbsgl9x82KkJIH6U5cLP8gxgTgq_Zyfw8l_2FWUd-o4fsANFdMISxeFD8B7TYuJamoTZ0NSZNFUYhyphenhyphencDFFxlay/s320/0115112100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> The frame is looking better, some extra bracing will be designed and welded on once the motor is back in, so we avoid interference with it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHJ01QfqJO7g58cO1oJn5tZdFv_DcYKWKzK8KBOJsZBlRf-vyIsW7kllc_HQHTjC4d8mPYuITold0ur0NaINb2RhFUHL8uveGzoLOVxMOWnKPCeET8LTe3KTrSSRFenU-ohE6Tt3B3aa2d/s1600/0131112118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHJ01QfqJO7g58cO1oJn5tZdFv_DcYKWKzK8KBOJsZBlRf-vyIsW7kllc_HQHTjC4d8mPYuITold0ur0NaINb2RhFUHL8uveGzoLOVxMOWnKPCeET8LTe3KTrSSRFenU-ohE6Tt3B3aa2d/s320/0131112118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> The carbs have been cleaned and the old paint stripped off, the bodies have been ultrasonically cleaned and Toby has gone through and inspected and ordered replacement parts where needed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpqEi7-qPc9v0PM9Swhsv0aJssHvNRDkuq1Eq2gIV4vTwkcay8IXUdeC3cgzy0d5PAbhTq5v0QoCdFoMWSHCujngAA-_OAB_w6NE8RPcLStTWfeF9U0kX5qMjDwdNHURdDwYfioY15Z9d/s1600/0120111234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpqEi7-qPc9v0PM9Swhsv0aJssHvNRDkuq1Eq2gIV4vTwkcay8IXUdeC3cgzy0d5PAbhTq5v0QoCdFoMWSHCujngAA-_OAB_w6NE8RPcLStTWfeF9U0kX5qMjDwdNHURdDwYfioY15Z9d/s320/0120111234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Carb bowls have been ultrasonically cleaned too, and polished.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_Gd9IMMFcmLHAW3WN3jiYEmjpCgXz0PumjbbX7ncuGEwM-fWI5OjJpdkGylvLoetGm_eHDeKfCkCZMhz7wqBTfYdYEX8zK26i7PUFu6EYVQ2btVuNbD-vKajL_ZrDCwQFV7pD4AAPE0t/s1600/0120111234a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_Gd9IMMFcmLHAW3WN3jiYEmjpCgXz0PumjbbX7ncuGEwM-fWI5OjJpdkGylvLoetGm_eHDeKfCkCZMhz7wqBTfYdYEX8zK26i7PUFu6EYVQ2btVuNbD-vKajL_ZrDCwQFV7pD4AAPE0t/s320/0120111234a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bBwGwV08RGA0vM0h-uBI01HWLbqxsysiKEpK5duWPTg0DBZ2nI9EI7PYlMFr3PIUGu8Oz-kheDa-9LMLQ5J0OjU937VF7KnV-0xC66DvGxGeN_1I3XcKomwWSF3FF1GwGhgUGER7dI5i/s1600/0130111758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bBwGwV08RGA0vM0h-uBI01HWLbqxsysiKEpK5duWPTg0DBZ2nI9EI7PYlMFr3PIUGu8Oz-kheDa-9LMLQ5J0OjU937VF7KnV-0xC66DvGxGeN_1I3XcKomwWSF3FF1GwGhgUGER7dI5i/s320/0130111758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>While waiting for the engine to finish up, I machined a titanium rear axle to replace the stock steel unit, for a savings of 10oz of unsprung mass. The front will get one too, as well as rebuilt forks and custom cartridge emulators.roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-38795393288262439772011-01-29T23:56:00.000-05:002011-01-29T23:56:36.155-05:00XS MANX<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We got the tires off the old rims, and bought a Borrani 18" rim for the front wheel, along with stainless spokes to lace both 18" rims to the hubs. An order of needed engine parts will come in this week, so the engine can be buttoned up better than new. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl48ikxTG_-ofQWaJTi24pQ6BHj6mBJGK48yjHJBhNr3VkDtZuISZJc0l7LCe_YJUtKVBIZZfSbwZiO72qeaXmcGpiXwfdsKz48aCoi8_hLSjnuDM_IA0nwYy1xfUE8QI6dq6HdCvsDDCk/s1600/0129112035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl48ikxTG_-ofQWaJTi24pQ6BHj6mBJGK48yjHJBhNr3VkDtZuISZJc0l7LCe_YJUtKVBIZZfSbwZiO72qeaXmcGpiXwfdsKz48aCoi8_hLSjnuDM_IA0nwYy1xfUE8QI6dq6HdCvsDDCk/s320/0129112035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The spokes were removed and the hubs will be polished and lightened where needed, the rear drum may or may not end up being resurfaced. The front wheel and hub are fairly light and strong, and the Ducati rotor being used on the front end won't add much to the unsprung weight either, which will be good. The back wheel assembly however, was awfully heavy and is going to make the back end suspension a touchy subject. I took apart the assembly and decided I could start to shed some weight at the axle. So I decided to make the axle again in titanium, as I still have about 20 feet left from a surplus find. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5cOxrBjwW-bquJCYLYWWergUxoe347IHx9CFNVxESngNzry8fYFHkL9FDdCjHTO41_iHot4Afp3osfC3RmThkqvkrS6dcBaKIW5qGutMTX_I6JZlW0MaXP3Xjh3qb5QPJaSDx7B9AF2WM/s1600/0129112034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5cOxrBjwW-bquJCYLYWWergUxoe347IHx9CFNVxESngNzry8fYFHkL9FDdCjHTO41_iHot4Afp3osfC3RmThkqvkrS6dcBaKIW5qGutMTX_I6JZlW0MaXP3Xjh3qb5QPJaSDx7B9AF2WM/s320/0129112034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Titanium isn't much fun to machine, especially with a very old lathe, and no steady rest either. The amount I could take off per pass was really limited by the need to keep the piece from flexing, so about an hour and a half after starting, I was doing my finishing passes. Without the steady rest, I had to divide up the shaft and manually compensate for the remaining flex in the piece. Not too bad really, wound up with an axle +/- .001 over the length, plenty precise for this old beast. And it saved 10oz over the stock steel shaft, and is stronger too. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU1g5t10MY3LaO0ti2D6vuJT-QanpyPJ3eMen-knqHxGR13UhBG-xYH8YSrKTArvShooNykGMy6TZxCHRMOGQKOTLeHj9G5a0y3oOTdqYWhQsAmek-iuvHz8xS7vTXM5f0x9qIQG9Q9_DY/s1600/0129112106a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU1g5t10MY3LaO0ti2D6vuJT-QanpyPJ3eMen-knqHxGR13UhBG-xYH8YSrKTArvShooNykGMy6TZxCHRMOGQKOTLeHj9G5a0y3oOTdqYWhQsAmek-iuvHz8xS7vTXM5f0x9qIQG9Q9_DY/s320/0129112106a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7843502674063953132.post-2971526566958844392011-01-17T20:58:00.000-05:002011-01-17T20:58:58.718-05:00Building the XS Manx<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Despite getting the business end of a screwdriver in his eye last week, Toby is back at the 650 engine, which is certainly a well engineered piece of metal. The cam came out with little trouble, the manual specs a chain breaker to split the cam chain and extract the cam, but he managed to remove the end bearings and find enough wiggle room to get it out with ease. The frame continues to shed weight, another hour of grinding left me with a pile of dust and useless crap to clean up, better on the floor than on the bike in my opinion, useless weight has no place on a real cafe racer. We're planning on swapping the front forks for a set of larger XJ1100 units, the top and bottom triple clamps will be machined after we mock up the bike to measure some of the critical geometry. The trees will likely be built with an eccentric adjustment for fork offset, to allow some fine tuning once the bike is on the road. I'll likely be machining some cartridge emulators and building them into the fork damping system too, there's no reason to leave better roadholding out of the equation.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9K19EI9pJfhILgwME9f8YuOxFDsaXQP10wlv1dj66ri2MPCAy5KE_plH4kIbyxciIVFOFNKEwbBZxCNnr1F3wxX4hbJHm08l9v1IxihBg4WeQcrrVl9TQba2FjpDYmfgiIr65_LS6_svj/s1600/DSCN1559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9K19EI9pJfhILgwME9f8YuOxFDsaXQP10wlv1dj66ri2MPCAy5KE_plH4kIbyxciIVFOFNKEwbBZxCNnr1F3wxX4hbJHm08l9v1IxihBg4WeQcrrVl9TQba2FjpDYmfgiIr65_LS6_svj/s320/DSCN1559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaR_Da0aEF7jmjdKgF0RWViPU-6dJ1h2TAfYnmHpVO06OQ1dLkTxikrjDri9ozvDMDV_wkOfwHAzvTLGMNFG_Na4d6WDW9OOa7Znx0r46js4z9PgnD08d0omz4nr5kilOO2Ub5hUY3wo_3/s1600/DSCN1560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULjwqv5uioAKB3vlzngvConIBcf7JXCSbNXJpHYFkkiVVxq1R_M3A8f3_Wurp_mateLiA2pC3R4FxMZpH0A7Q1I4NizOxHVcfThbpBSpC9bK57_kL5Z1yAlXWy5qGs323X-IZkL2HzdyT/s1600/DSCN1562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULjwqv5uioAKB3vlzngvConIBcf7JXCSbNXJpHYFkkiVVxq1R_M3A8f3_Wurp_mateLiA2pC3R4FxMZpH0A7Q1I4NizOxHVcfThbpBSpC9bK57_kL5Z1yAlXWy5qGs323X-IZkL2HzdyT/s320/DSCN1562.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTEhiuaRucYgwrSfnJ8JozneobghFhNKbjIhLx8O6re-B6_zLtcx9_m0QceXklwGrT9RVwZFIK9g5E0s9JzcBQWdGLgp2z695wVza6aBYuqf1Ehz_XNEbptHcdjKpfaLGJHZwwQj7ATu1I/s1600/DSCN1561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTEhiuaRucYgwrSfnJ8JozneobghFhNKbjIhLx8O6re-B6_zLtcx9_m0QceXklwGrT9RVwZFIK9g5E0s9JzcBQWdGLgp2z695wVza6aBYuqf1Ehz_XNEbptHcdjKpfaLGJHZwwQj7ATu1I/s320/DSCN1561.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>roccitycafehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12903691480832647830noreply@blogger.com0